Pepero Day

Happy Belated Pepero Day!
Yesterday was Pepero Day here in South Korea – a holiday, like many holidays, devoted to sweets.
What is Pepero? Pepero is a chocolate-covered pretzel stick candy snack made by Lotte Confectionery, a division of Lotte Group (one of the country’s powerful chaebols*). It is similar to Japan’s Pocky snack. In fact, it’s a bit too similar. Pocky debuted in the 1960’s, and in 1983 Lotte began selling Pepero. Ezaki Glico (makers of Pocky) tried to sue Lotte for stealing their product – something Lotte insists it did not do – but since Pocky was not available in South Korea at the time, apparently they were unable to do this. (They have since found other excuses to sue Lotte, however.)
Things became even more maddening for Glico when, according to Lotte’s marketing ploy legend, two Korean schoolgirls exchanged boxes of Pepero on November 11 in hopes of becoming tall and thin, like a Pepero stick. November 11 was chosen because it looks like a bunch of Pepero sticks: 11/11.

if I eat a bunch of chocolate candies, I can be as thin as my idols, yeah?

Somehow, this Pepero gift exchange caught on and spread throughout Korea. Lotte naturally jumped on this opportunity, and in 1997 began marketing Pepero Day as a kind of Valentine’s Day for more than just couples (though it’s pretty couple-oriented, as well). And it worked! Today, Lotte Confectionery makes half its annual sales on Pepero Day. All the major department stores and grocery chains put up Pepero Day displays, and K-pop stars hawk the candy in posters and advertisements.

Pepero Day display in my local E-mart

Glico was… let’s say, annoyed. They invented the candy, but did not get to enjoy either their own product holiday or the ballooning sales that came with it. (I like to imagine some Glico executive snapping Pepero in his fingers and throwing them down on a boardroom table before a bunch of sheepish minions, but, being Japan, it’s doubtful this would occur.) So, Glico decided to make it happen. They began heavily advertising “Pocky and Pretz Day” in Japan (Pretz is Pocky’s naked cousin) in a veritable media blitz. Think: Doki Doki Pocky Roulette; Pocky Rockets; national dance contests; skydivers dropping giant Pocky onto a target on the ground… They even promoted several social media stunts and wound up putting themselves in the Guinness Book of World Records for “Largest Online Photo Montage of Cookies/Biscuits” and “Most Mentions of a Brand Name on Twitter in 24 Hours.” 
Some believe, in an ironic twist of the you-steal-we-steal Pepero vs Pocky Day rivalry, that Pocky Day in Japan only became popular because the Korean Wave** had made Japanese people familiar with Pepero Day. 
Oh, well. Profits are profits, and everybody wants an excuse to eat candy, right?

eat 11 of them on 11/11 at 11:11

*A chaebol is one of the family-run business conglomerates that traditionally enjoyed government support and a near-untouchable status in South Korea. (I’ll try to post more about them later.) Lotte is the country’s 5th largest conglomerate. Its empire spans everything from candy and beer to department stores and hotels, and its founding and ruling family is currently involved in so. much. drama. Founder and 94-year-old patriarch Shin Kyuk-ho was ousted by his younger son in 2015. Older son and heir apparent Shin Dong-joo has been feuding with his younger brother over control of the company since Shin Dong-bin usurped chairmanship after successfully expanding Lotte. When their feud became public the government began investigating the group, and last March all three Shins were indicted for tax evasion, financial scams, and embezzlement. Oh, and sister was already in jail for embezzlement and breach of trust.
**”Korean Wave” refers to the spreading popularity of Korean culture around Asia and the world, thanks to trendy K-pop girl/boy bands and K-dramas. I once read that it was actually a government scheme to gain support for South Korea, since they needed regional goodwill on their side due to the ongoing conflict with North Korea.
And lastly… which is better? Pocky or Pepero?

Pocky vs Pepero

Catching Up: Summer mini-trip to Seoul

One weekend in July, we took a trip up to Seoul with my parents to do a little sightseeing. It was the rainy season, so we had to change our plans a little bit, but what we did in the end was probably more interesting than our original plans.

lovely new train station in Jinju

We took the subway to City Hall to see Seoul Plaza and Deoksugung Palace. When we emerged from below, we found ourselves in the middle of a protest rally at Daehanmun Gate (the entrance to the palace). The gate is apparently a popular spot for political protests. This particular rally was for a far-right group, which seems to support U.S. troops and a more hawkish stance with the North.

those flags are saying something about Kim Jong-un and the North

[Side note: Trump’s visit to Korea this week was met with protests by those who are against the U.S. President and possible war with the North – along with a small number of pro-U.S. protests – though all protests were banned in many parts of downtown Seoul as the government enforced “security zones” around the President’s Blue House and the National Assembly.]

The issue of political protests in Korea is complicated and I could do an entire post on it, but suffice to say Koreans have a long history of protest. Since at least 1919 with the March 1st Movement against Japanese colonizers, Koreans have found public demonstrations to be an effective way to push back against their government. Oftentimes, such protest can be dangerous – as when the Japanese military gunned down unarmed students, or when the Korean military gunned down unarmed students – but that seems not to deter people. Millions of Koreans turn out regardless. When we first arrived last year, Korea was in the middle of mass protests against then-president Park Geun-Hye (the “candlelight revolution”). Because protests are so common, they are well-organized and sometimes even family-oriented. Aaron’s coworker took his son to one of the anti-Park protests, saying he wanted to teach him how to do it right. Besides, he said, “At least this time, they won’t be throwing tear gas canisters at us.”

We didn’t stay long at the Daehanmun protest, and I’m not certain what was said, but there were speeches and some singing and a lot of flag (American and Korean) waving. Since the area immediately in front of the gate was pretty busy, we decided to skip a visit to the palace.

Daehanmun Gate hosts a Changing of the Guard ceremony three times a day; originally held in the Joseon period, the ritual was revived in 1996

Wandering instead over to Seoul Plaza, we happened upon a fair put on by the Seoul Metropolitan Government. There were booths and a stage and some kind of raffle going on… the usual fair activities. The kids insisted on visiting the “learn how to use a fire extinguisher” booth, and some guy let Lena loose with an extinguisher until she smoked out the place.

can’t resist running around such a nice and big open space
from the girl who chooses fireman costume over princess costume
Olympics countdown clock!

Dad declared it all to be far more interesting than a museum.

But the next day, we went to a museum anyway. The War Memorial of Korea was built in the early 90’s on the former site of the Korean army headquarters in Yongsan, Seoul. It commemorates the wars of Korea, and in particular the Korean War. Thousands of items from Korea’s military history are displayed – including numerous tanks, aircraft, rockets, boats, and vehicles – along with a memorial to the Korean and U.N. soldiers who died during the war.

the Korean War Monument
around the central plaza are plaques dedicated to the U.N. countries who lost soldiers during the Korean War

It is probably one of the most impressive museums/memorials I have ever seen. The grounds are vast and beautiful. The building is enormous and beautiful. There are sooo many items, and I don’t know why but I just find it really impressive to see so many full-sized vehicles inside a building. They have everything from a Turtle Ship replica to Kim Il-sung’s limousine. We only had a few hours to wander around the museum and grounds, but I could have taken longer. Even the kids enjoyed climbing all over the jeeps and tanks.

If you’re ever in Seoul, I highly recommend a visit.

paratrooper
anyone know what type of plane this is?
kids on big weapon
Dokdo pride! the Dokdo islands are basically big rocks in the East Sea that Korea and Japan are fighting over… Korea annoyed Japan this week when they served Trump Dokdo Island shrimp at a state dinner in Seoul
Turtle Ship! (not to scale)
this cool display projected images of soldiers fighting over the backdrop
family photo time
rockets
tanks
tanks
really, such impressive grounds
B-52
and a creepy face statue

We finished up our visit to Seoul with a day at Lotte World, a theme park right in the middle of Seoul and the other major Korean theme park aside from Everland. The highlight for me is the fact that most of it is indoors (useful on rainy days, as it was on our visit). Cramming all that “fun” into one big space is really quite impressive (you could almost high-five people going past on the roller coaster). The other part of the park is outdoors on a island in a lake. Unfortunately, due to the downpour, we could not visit this part of the park. It was fairly empty when we first arrived, but by the afternoon it was full of high schoolers in uniform wandering about in groups. I wouldn’t mind returning sometimes, and I’m sure the kids wouldn’t, either.

so very large… with an ice rink at the bottom
up close and personal with the roller coaster
trick eye room
cutest mummy ever
as far as we got
Namsan and Seoul Tower at night