Hangul Day

Monday was Hangul Day, the day that commemorates the creation of Hangul (or Hangeul), the Korean script.

As an English speaker, I’m guessing that this…

안녕하세요? 초콜릿 먹실래요?

Looks to you like this…

gobbledygookgobbledygookgobbledygook

But, in fact, what you are looking at is one of the most clever writing systems ever created by humans. (And please note that I am speaking about the writing system only; Korean itself is a beast of a language, what with its multiple levels of formality and honorifics, need for contextualization,* and “feelings” instead of hard and fast grammar rules.**)

Why is Hangul so clever?

Well, first, because it is a created script – a scientifically created script, no less. Unlike most language writing systems, which evolved over time, Hangul was created in one go, specifically for the Korean language. Every sound has its own character and it’s consistent. None of this “through = thru” crap English speakers have to worry about, or “do I pronounce the H in herb?” kind of problems.

Second, because it was specifically created to be easy to learn.

A little history before I explain the technicalities…

In the early 1400’s, Korean was written using a mishmash of Chinese (derived) characters called hanja and various native phonetic characters. This is similar to Japanese today, which is a mix of kanji (Chinese characters) and hiragana/katakana (phonetic characters). About 70% of Japanese words and 65% of Korean words originally come from Chinese (in Korean, they are known as Sino-Korean words) and can be written with Chinese characters. But the problem with Chinese characters is that they are difficult to learn — they are not intuitive and require lots of time to memorize. In 15th century Korea, only a small, elite class of scholars were literate because of this.

Then came King Sejong the Great, fourth monarch of the Joseon dynasty. Sejong did a lot of amazing things to secure his country and make life better for its people. He overlooked class when choosing skilled people for various jobs (much to the distaste of elites), he promoted science and literature, he strengthened the military, he reformed taxes on farmers to ease their burden and create a surplus of rice for the poor… he was very much a forward-thinking person. But probably his greatest achievement was the creation of Hangul.

“Sejong Daewang”

Together with his son and a small group of scholars (though some argue he did it himself, as he was an accomplished writer), Sejong sought to create a writing system that would be easy for the vast number of illiterate farmers and peasants to learn. The Hangul alphabet was finalized in 1443, and its date of publication in 1446 with a manual called Hunmin Jeongeum (“Proper Sounds for the Instruction of People”) is today celebrated as Hangul Day.

Regarding ease of learning, the Hunmin Jeongeum claimed, “A wise man can acquaint himself with them before the morning is over; a stupid man can learn them in the space of ten days.” I can testify from experience that this is true. Before moving to Korea, I put a really plain app on my phone that teaches you the letters, along with their sounds, then quizzes you. I was reading basic words within a couple days of using the app for just 20 minutes at bedtime. I often had no idea what the word meant, but since a lot of English words appear in Korean everyday use (especially in chain restaurants), just knowing Hangul helped tremendously.***

Let’s take a little detour to introduce letters.

*black letters are plain; red are tense/double; and purple are aspirated
*black are plain; red are “y” dipthongs; and purple are “w” dipthongs

Don’t ask me about tense or aspirated consonants, because I cannot hear a bit of difference between them. They are supposed to be stressed or emphasized or go up in pitch or have more force of air behind them or something like that, but they all come out of my mouth the same. 방 (“bang”) and 빵 (“bbang”) are both “bahng” to me.

Letters are combined into “blocks” to create a syllable. Blocks must contain either a vowel with the placeholder ㅇ before it (vowels cannot be first in a block) or a consonant plus a vowel. Blocks usually have 2-3 letters, but can have up to 4-5 (full disclosure: I hate the 4-letter blocks). These blocks can be words or combined to make words.

So 사 “sa” + 람 “ram” = 사람 “saram,” which means person. (사 is also the Sino-Korean number for 4, but numbers are a subject for another day.)

Go ahead and try making your name from the letters above. Mine is 메간. Lena is 리나. Jennifer is 제니퍼. And Robert is 로버트.

Easy, right?

Well, okay, there’s more to it than that. In fact, there’s a whole lot of fancy linguistic terms used for why this system was well designed. I won’t bother with all that, but one fun example of Hangul’s clever design is this: the shape of the letters were meant to be memory cues. Consonants mimic the position of a person’s tongue in the mouth when it is making that sound.

for example

And vowels were designed as horizontal and vertical lines representing earth and human, and the little lines that jut off to the side were originally dots, representing sky. This not only helps make vowels easily distinguishable from consonants, but also represents a yin/yang philosophy of darkness and light. Vowels pointing up or to the right (ㅗ and ㅏ) are light and those pointing down or to the left (ㅜ and ㅓ) are dark. Light vowels combine with other light vowels, and dark vowels combine with other dark vowels, something known as vowel harmony (the Korean language already had strong vowel harmony). In Korean, words with “dark” vowels tend to represent a darker or heavier meaning, compared to those with “light” vowels.

Confucian influence

The publication of Hangul had the effect King Sejong intended. Within a relatively short time, a large number of Koreans could read it. That’s not to say Hangul didn’t have a rocky path to prominence, however. The literate elite opposed the new alphabet. Subsequent (less benevolent) kings did not like peasants putting up posters mocking them, so banned the script. Its use came and went over the centuries, usually still mixed with hanja. It wasn’t until the late 1800’s that Hangul was used in an official capacity. And it wasn’t until the 1980’s that hanja began to fade from use. Today, almost all written text in South Korea is in Hangul. (North Korea switched to Hangul at its founding after the war.)

Hanja is still taught in schools here, and there are those who wish to bring it back. Personally, I think that would be stupid. Why take such a fabulous and well-designed writing system and replace it with something unnecessarily difficult and unsuitable. I’m all for maintaining traditions, but some traditions we just don’t need anymore.

*Koreans don’t really use a lot of pronouns; you just kind of have to understand what is being discussed by context. “You,” for example, is 당신 “dangshin.” But even though this is the only word for “you,” it is considered to be overly aggressive, so you’re not supposed to use it unless you’re looking for a fight.

“Well, what if we want to refer to something that belongs to you? Like, ‘your baby’? ‘As in, Your baby is cute,'” we asked our language instructor.

Teacher: “Just say, ‘baby is cute.'”

Aaron: “What if there are two babies? And one is ugly, but yours is cute. I want to say your baby is cute.”

Teacher: “You would never do that. Never. All babies are cute.”

Aaron: “But…”

Teacher: “NO. All babies are cute.”

**While there are many specific grammar rules for Korean, there also are a whole lot of phrases and sentences that are composed a certain way for seemingly no particular reason. I would often ask our language teacher if “xyz” was correct, and she would say, “No… that doesn’t sound right, you should say ‘abc,'” even though there didn’t seem to be any particular rule against “xyz.” Or I would ask her why something must be said a certain way, and her response was, “Well, it just doesn’t sound right.”

At first, I thought it was just me, but I recently read an article in which a native English-speaker university professor who lives in Korea discussed arguments with his Korean teacher over phrases that “just don’t feel right,” even though the teacher could not explain why.

***Learning Hangul is so easy, I believe it lulls one into a false sense of ability when it comes to learning the Korean language. The script can be read in a day or two; to understand its meaning takes years. The U.S. Foreign Service Institute lists Korean as a Category V learning difficulty for English-speakers (the hardest category, requiring 88 weeks to learn). Spanish, by contrast (the language I studied all through school) is Category I (24 weeks).

Chuseok and the long holiday

Everybody is slowly getting back into the swing of things after an extra-long holiday season here in Korea. This last week had three public holidays in a row: Foundation Day on the 3rd, Chuseok from the 4th to the 6th, and Hangul Day on the 9th. Not long after President Moon took office, he declared Monday October 2nd a holiday also, giving Koreans a rare 10-day holiday.

One of President Moon’s stated goals for office was to help improve Koreans’ work-life balance. South Korea has some of the longest working hours in the world. The government only instituted a 5-day workweek in the early-2000s, and President Moon wants to drop working hours from a maximum of 68 hours per week to 52 hours. Some people also want more flexible leave time, so workers aren’t forced to take only public holidays, when travel fares are much higher.

The government’s other goal for the long holiday was to boost domestic spending. The Korean economy has taken a bit of a hit lately due to (1) China’s “unofficial sanctions” against South Korea in protest of the THAAD deployment, (2) America threatening to undo its trade deal with South Korea, and (3) America threatening to start a war with North Korea (which, of course, would inevitably lead to much destruction here). Early figures suggest it worked. Record numbers of Koreans traveled domestically (and internationally) and store sales were up for the period.

Unfortunately, due to my now-recovering broken ankle, we were unable to travel this week. (I enjoyed, with an admittedly small tinge of jealously, all the pictures of our friends’ adventures abroad during this time.) Despite becoming free of the cast, I was still on crutches at the start of the holiday period, and even now cannot walk for too long without it aching and swelling. I thought maybe we could do some day trips around the area, but Aaron instead decided to work throughout the week and move his holiday time to Christmas so we can take a longer home leave in December. In the end, the kids and I spent the week lounging at home, watching movies, playing games, and generally doing nothing productive.

We planned to visit Oktoberfest at the German village on Namhae Island last Saturday, but got a late start. After encountering too much traffic, we decided to abort and try again Sunday at an earlier time (I didn’t want to miss out on the parking lot/shuttle and have to walk for miles). We went instead to Yongdu park to enjoy the beautiful weather and let the kids run around. I was rather surprised with how well I did walking. There’s not a flat path in Korea; this place is all mountains and hills and their paths are decades old, if not older (paving over donkey trails, so to speak). But the next day I had to pay the price (I’m sorry, ankle!!), so Oktoberfest was out. Oh, well. I can’t drink beer right now anyways, and the kids didn’t even care.

clean air! plants and flowers! bugs, bugs, and more bugs!
the photo spot
this is why Koreans are all so skinny… the park was filled with middle aged and older people walking and exercising (these little exercise stations are found everywhere here… everywhere)
lake at the top of the dam (park is beneath this earthen dam (on the right) and there is a walking path to the top
waiting for daddy to bring the car (because mama wasn’t about to hobble back down the dam)
road to the park (which is ahead in that valley)… Aaron says that after living here, he’s going to get home and accidentally drive down the bike lane

A note about Chuseok…

Along with Seollal (Lunar New Year), Chuseok (“Autumn Eve”) is one of the most important holidays in Korea. Also known as Korean Thanksgiving, Chuseok is a harvest festival. As with Seollal, Koreans return to their hometown to gather with family, honor their ancestors in a memorial service called charye, wear traditional clothes, eat traditional food, and play traditional games. Being a harvest festival, however, Chuseok involves freshly harvested rice and other foods.

The extent to which we could celebrate Chuseok was my buying a bag of frozen songpyeon at the grocery store. Songpyeon is the food of Chuseok, and families would traditionally make it together on Chuseok eve. What is it? … Delicious is what it is!

Songpyeon are rice cakes filled with sweet beans and nuts and shaped into adorable little balls. Sometimes the rice flour is colored for variety (e.g., purple with blueberries). After being stuffed and  shaped, the songpyeon are steamed on a bed of pine needles to impart a pine-y flavor. Our frozen Peacock Brand songpyeon unfortunately lacked the pine-yness of fresh songpyeon, but they were nonetheless nummy.

At school, Lena got to make and eat her own songpyeon. Her class also dressed in their adorable little hanbok and visited the local cultural center to play traditional games. I really want to post a photo of them all posing at the center because they are so darn cute, but I’m not sure about the social/legal norms of posting photos with other peoples’ children. (Although, given the fact that the playplace lady used a photo of Lena in the ballpit as her KakaoTalk profile pic for awhile, Koreans may not be picky about these things…)

yummy songpyeon
I’m sorry, glasses boy! …but you were in every. single. picture.

Gaecheonjeol

Today is Gaecheonjeol, Festival of the Opening of Heaven (lit. “Opening Sky Day”), also known as National Foundation Day. Gaecheonwas the day, according to Korean legend, when Hwanung, the son of the Lord of Heaven, descended to live upon the earth in 2457 BC. On the same day in 2333 BC, his son Dangun established the first Korean state of Gojoseon. Originally, it was celebrated on the 3rd day of the 10th lunar month, but has since been fixed on October 3. Gaecheonjeol was designated a national holiday in 1909.

When Hwanung came to earth, he brought with him a few thousands followers and founded the city of Sinsi (“City of God”) on the sacred mountain Baekdu.

I kind of love this painting

Baekdusan is the highest mountain on the Korean peninsula. It is an active volcano with a lake (Heaven Lake) in the caldera at the top of the mountain. Today, Baekdusan is dissected by the border between North Korea and China. Some Koreans claim that Japanese colonizers gave away their sacred territory to the Chinese when establishing boundary lines, and there have been disputes about the border for decades. However, South Korean tourists are able to visit the mountain today because they can access it from the Chinese side.

photo by Ahn Seung-il*

Once on earth, Hwanung taught humans laws, morals, arts, medicine (e.g., acupuncture), and how to grow food.

In a cave on the mountain lived a tiger and a bear. Every day, they prayed to Hwanung that they might become human. Having heard their prayers, Hwanung called the animals before him. He gave them each 20 cloves of garlic and a bundle of mugwort, and commanded them to eat only this sacred food and to stay out of sunlight for 100 days. If they did this, he would make them human.

The animals returned to their cave. However, the tiger soon grew hungry and impatient and left the cave. Only the bear remained. On the 21st day, the bear transformed into a beautiful woman. Her name was Ungnyeo. She was grateful to Hwanung, and gave him offerings of thanks.

But people avoided the bear-woman, and over time she became lonely. Sitting beneath a sacred sandalwood tree, she prayed to Hwanung that she might have a child. Moved by her sincerity, Hwanung decided to answer her prayers by making himself human and taking Ungnyeo as his wife. Together they had a son, Dangun Wanggeom.

Dangun succeeded his father as a wise and powerful ruler. (Personally, I think it helps to have “Grandson of God” and “Child of a Bear” on your resume for such a position.) He founded a mythical walled city called Asadal that marked the beginning of the Gojoseon Kingdom – the first of many kingdoms on the Korean peninsula.

*South Korean photographer Ahn Seung-il has been photographing Baekdusan for decades. Frustrated that he could only take pictures from the Chinese side of the mountain, he wrote a letter to Kim Il-sung in 1995 asking for permission to visit the North Korean side and delivered it to the North Korean embassy in China. He told “Dear Brother Kim” to not let only Japanese or foreign photographers take pictures of Baekdusan, but a Korean such as himself who understood the soul of the mountain. He has twice held photo exhibitions in Pyongyang. “When political exchanges were almost non-existent,” he said, “we had a few in the field of photography.”